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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:41 am 
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When taking the welding and remachining route, do you weld the entire length of the rail or just the first and last 3/4 in?

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Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:53 pm
Posts: 38

Post Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:32 pm 
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rs1954 ...what did you figure out re how far to weld rail?
Dave

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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:54 pm 
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Dave,
Sorry, I did not see your question for a few days. Working the real job too much! I only got one response saying to weld the first and last portion of the rail. Bigger problem is that I still do not know the grade of stainless. I finally got a response from Springfield Armory after three weeks. They said "we never tell the grade of material used in any of our components"............the guy was apologetic but would not budge on telling me the grade of stainless. I have found a source for testing the grade with a PMI machine. It will be a week or two before I can arrange to meet up with the test person. We can know in about 15 seconds what the material is and then I can proceed from there. Also Springfield said that they would not sell me a replacement frame……………………… :(
Looks like I may be waiting on a frame form Caspian or STI. As behind as the mfg are, it may be a long wait.

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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:59 pm
Posts: 697

Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:13 pm 
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You can pretty much count on a Series 400 SS, so ER410 rod would be appropriate. Interested to see what you find.

LOG

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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 1:56 am
Posts: 229
Location: shop.HarrisonCustom.com

Post Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:39 am 
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rs1954,

I work these jobs is a pretty inflexible order of progress, taking the highest risk jobs and doing them first, so that if everything turns to Poo and you'd really like to scrap the frame, you haven't done all these other jobs first. I always do the trigger guard squaring first (if it's to be done), then fit the slide to frame, then fit the barrel and then everything else in logical sequence. I quit squeezing and peening a long time ago and although I never broke one either, I've sure seen it happen to other guys enough to know that it was just a matter of time. I weld and remachine to fit the slide to frame. If I am working a stainless gun, I do the TIG work with carbon steel filler wire, the same Brownells 3% nickel stuff that I use on the carbon frames. It gives a dissimilar metal in contact with the slide and incidences of galling go way down. If the gun's finish will be bare S/S, I stop the rear of the welded pad just short of being visible with the slide in battery. Little worry of rust, that way.

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John Harrison

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http://www.LouderThanWords.us

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