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Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
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Post Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:46 pm 
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Great info. Thanks much!

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Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 12:13 pm 
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10ring wrote:
dustinoif3 wrote:
10ring wrote:
If iunderstand correctly, the sleeve should have a .11" straight section on the muzzel end which is 0.0003" under the slide channel size, is that correct?

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The target flat is .09 to .1. Mine is .110 as I left it .010 longer than the slide as I knew the measurement but didn't trust it when it was crunch time. Lol. It's all good. Once it's in the spider I'll take care of it and the extra barrel in there.
The target under the slide ID is .0005. I lapped with some 320 then switched to 600. It'll go to the breech face with some light taps so it's getting close. Hoping to finish it in the morning. I still need to make the reverse plug before I can cycle it. Will do a little more lapping once it's together.

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Regarding reverse plugs, do you start with an available plug and machine to fit? If so, how? Boring bar in spider? Reamer? Other?

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With the reverse plug I'll just make it from the measurements I pull from the slide so it has a good fit. You can make it all in one set up on the lathe. Just need to be careful and not drill the big hole through the wall at the end. I shoot for about .1 thickness when drilling so it comes out around .06ish with the drill pointImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

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Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 3:54 pm 
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Thanks for the info. Two more questions.

1) thoughts on supported reverse plugs, necessary or just cosmetic?

2) does anyone have a picture of how they drive barrels in a lath? I've had a mill for years, but the lathe is new to me...

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Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:35 pm 
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10ring wrote:
Thanks for the info. Two more questions.

1) thoughts on supported reverse plugs, necessary or just cosmetic?

2) does anyone have a picture of how they drive barrels in a lath? I've had a mill for years, but the lathe is new to me...

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I drive mine on a DA 100 collet holder. Mandrel is turned slightly smaller than the chamber then about .375 is turned for the lands. This set up came from Mr Keefer for an economical set up. On the holder I turned a bushing with a set screw then added a pin to drive it. Then I run a live center on the end. I played with a brass protector I made but couldn't get a good seat. Probably user error. I just grease the live center and bring it in lightly. Haven't seen any damage by doing this. Plus the crown gets recut anyway.

I run the unsupported just because that's what Joe C runs. He's been a wonderful asset in helping with the process and fitting theory. ImageImageImage

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Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:15 pm 
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Thanks much, It seems I may be over thinking things... so i'll do so again, do you turn a new bushing to fit each barrel, or are the land and grove dimensions consistant enough for this not to be a problem?

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Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:02 am 
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10ring wrote:
Thanks much, It seems I may be over thinking things... so i'll do so again, do you turn a new bushing to fit each barrel, or are the land and grove dimensions consistant enough for this not to be a problem?

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Currently I do. I'm just using some 6061. Only takes about 1.5" per barrel. I haven't splurged for a range rod set up. 6061 is cheap. Plus I know it's dead true. If I remember I'll grab a pic with the barrel off to show the little arbor. It's got a micro 60 degree bevel where it transitions to the land diameter.

One thing about me is that I usually do things the hard way and the way that takes the longest. Maybe I take things to the extreme when they really don't need to be. I'm receptive to methods and ideas but I also like to try things that make sense in my tiny brain. Just one of those deals I guess.

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Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 2:14 am 
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I had intended to turn a new bushing for each bbl. Two more questions.
1) why not drive off the hood instead of the legs
2) why the lands I stead of the chamber, just in case the chamber is off, or is there another reason?

Thanks much

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Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:52 am
Posts: 200

Post Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:18 pm 
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this mandrel drives the hood
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/51572 ... less-steel

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Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:09 pm 
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10ring wrote:
I had intended to turn a new bushing for each bbl. Two more questions.
1) why not drive off the hood instead of the legs
2) why the lands I stead of the chamber, just in case the chamber is off, or is there another reason?

Thanks much

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I drove off the legs as the fixture was a simple lathe operation.

The bore is the most true way when talking true?? Not saying that chamber's are off alot but if you run a finish reamer into a barrel you'll note that often it doesn't cut 100%.
I guess a better way to look at it is the barrel making process. After a blank is drilled and rifled then every other operation is derived from driving bore center line. That way every single aspect is in line. I believe that's why Jerry preferred KKM as the chamber's were short and undersized. He stated he could indicate off of the bore and single point a few thousandth's to give the reamer the correct path.
Here's a pic of the spud. Image

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