1911Pro.com

The 1911 Forum For Professional & DIY Gunsmithing
It is currently Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:49 pm

Board index » 1911s » 1911 Gunsmithing and Refinishing



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 19 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message

Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:58 pm 
Top  
I know there are fans of tapered barrels that used to visit this site. Is anyone interested in discussing pros, cons, and installation of tapered barrels???

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 3:34 am
Posts: 34

Post Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:28 am 
Top  
I'm interested as well...hopefully the pros will chime in on this. What appeals to me most about the cone barrel is the elimination of the barrel OD-bushing ID clearance. Every little bit helps on a Bullseye gun.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:38 am
Posts: 1983
Location: New Mexico

Post Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:08 pm 
Top  
If you mean tapered Bull barrels, sure, We have done plenty

_________________
https://www.facebook.com/elitewarriorarmament
https://www.facebook.com/Warner-Precisi ... 239866374/

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 6:48 am 
Top  
Chuck Warner wrote:
If you mean tapered Bull barrels, sure, We have done plenty
Yes, that's what I'm referring to. Do you start with a regular bull barrel and machine, or do you get custom made barrels? I know Jerry Keefer was working on his own barrels before his passing.

I'd like to try the tapered barrel on a bullseye gun. It will be an experimental gun so I thought i'd try something different...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:48 am
Posts: 621
Location: Northern Virginia

Post Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:45 pm 
Top  
Jerry added tapered sleeves to his barrels at one point. He posted several times about the slide bore prep and the sleeve fit. He was very meticulous about the slide prep. Lapped them with prepped laps to insure concentricity and sizing then matching the sleeve diameter and contour to the bore.
Joe

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
Posts: 249

Post Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:05 am 
Top  
I'm working through fitting my first one now. So far the cone is installed on the barrel, OD turned and taper turned back to where my flat is right at .110. I need to grab some pics on where it's at now. I've since cut a out .3 off the small end of the cone. The OD I've turned to .0003 less than the slide bore and I've began the lapping process. It's close. It's showing promise of being a sweet deal and I'm excited to see how it handles.
It is quite a process to fit and I can see where you could really over fit and end up with tolerance than measures what a bushing fit would. ImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:50 am 
Top  
If iunderstand correctly, the sleeve should have a .11" straight section on the muzzel end which is 0.0003" under the slide channel size, is that correct?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:13 pm
Posts: 249

Post Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:43 am 
Top  
10ring wrote:
If iunderstand correctly, the sleeve should have a .11" straight section on the muzzel end which is 0.0003" under the slide channel size, is that correct?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The target flat is .09 to .1. Mine is .110 as I left it .010 longer than the slide as I knew the measurement but didn't trust it when it was crunch time. Lol. It's all good. Once it's in the spider I'll take care of it and the extra barrel in there.
The target under the slide ID is .0005. I lapped with some 320 then switched to 600. It'll go to the breech face with some light taps so it's getting close. Hoping to finish it in the morning. I still need to make the reverse plug before I can cycle it. Will do a little more lapping once it's together.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:00 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 7:08 am 
Top  
dustinoif3 wrote:
10ring wrote:
If iunderstand correctly, the sleeve should have a .11" straight section on the muzzel end which is 0.0003" under the slide channel size, is that correct?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The target flat is .09 to .1. Mine is .110 as I left it .010 longer than the slide as I knew the measurement but didn't trust it when it was crunch time. Lol. It's all good. Once it's in the spider I'll take care of it and the extra barrel in there.
The target under the slide ID is .0005. I lapped with some 320 then switched to 600. It'll go to the breech face with some light taps so it's getting close. Hoping to finish it in the morning. I still need to make the reverse plug before I can cycle it. Will do a little more lapping once it's together.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Regarding reverse plugs, do you start with an available plug and machine to fit? If so, how? Boring bar in spider? Reamer? Other?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2016 5:41 am
Posts: 28
Location: Eastern NC

Post Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:31 pm 
Top  
This is some information I found online on another forum a while back from Joe Chambers. Just trying to lay out some more info. I have a threaded barrel and cone sitting here waiting to install in an upcoming build, so if anyone else has more info, let’s start dumping it into this thread.

Sure, there are pics online, but they are mostly, “Hey, look at my cone barrel.”

There is not much about HOW to do it though that I have been able to find.
————————————————
From Joe Chambers-

What I do is thread the outside of the barrel .575x40tpi for about .800" from the muzzle end of the barrel. This allows .080" of the cone to stick out of the slide when it is done for times when I am building a gun with a FO front sight that requires that bit of barrel to prevent blowing the FO out of the sight. This obviously gets trimmed off on most guns as you can see on this one and then the barrel is re-crowned. Then the cone, which is threaded likewise on the inside, is put on the outside of the barrel using 680 Locktite. (Of course there are several steps before this with the barrel fitting because once you put it on there with the 680...it's there...unless you wanna pour on the heat.)

This makes for the appearance of a bull barrel, sort of, with more consistency, reliability, and longevity than even a properly fit bushing. Typically a bull barrel has a wedge type lock up in my opinion. The barrels are typically (the ones I have fit) quite a bit smaller in O.D. than the slide is I.D. This means that when the leg fit, or wedge fit up front goes, so goes your accuracy to a degree...some worse than others.

The cone fit however has a ring of bearing area around the muzzle that is .100" long from front to back and all the way around (excepting of course where the opening at the bottom is). This .100" is something I was taught and then played with later. If you have much more than .100", say .120", the gun has a problem closing with tight tolerances. If you have less, say .080", you are loosing some of your long term consistency. The measurement of .100" seems to be a "right" number to achieve longevity and consistency. I have personally seen guns fit in this manner with over 100,000 rounds through them with minimal wear between the cone and the slide.

My typical difference between the I.D of the slide and the O.D. of the cone after it is lapped into the slide is .0005". Meaning, if the slide measures .703" then the cone will measure .7025" And the gun still functions even with 100% leg bearing on the slide stop, proper (for a Kart in my opinion) 10 and 2 lock up on the top, and a hood to breach face gap of .001" or less.

The cones I use were designed by myself and Bob Marvel by modifying an older version he used to use in order to improve the design. After we settled on the design we liked I started having them made for personal use and resale. They are made out of stress proof carbon steel and have proven to work very well. I do sell them for $30.00 each shipped out of my shop and soon will have them as well as other parts I use and sell available on my website much like other smiths...

 Profile  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 19 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

Jump to:  


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group :: Style based on FI Subice by phpBBservice.nl :: All times are UTC [ DST ]