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Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:59 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 6:12 pm 
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Anyone have some helpful information about parkerizing? I found a recipe for taking phosphoric acid and mixing it with zinc which supposedly produces similar finishes to the ww2 grey.

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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:40 am
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Location: NC

Post Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 10:47 am 
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www.du-lite.com Everything you will want to know.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:11 am 
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Thank you KC. This is the black finish. Any recommendations for a gray color? Looking in to a two-tone type of coloration.

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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
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Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 6:27 am 
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Du Lite sell both manganese (black) and zinc (grey) phosphate. Other sources are:
Brownell's - http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1106.aspx and http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... 24778.aspx

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 1:16 pm 
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Thank you everyone, so very much. I completely appreciate each and every one of you.

Is there any benefit for prolonged soak times on these parts? I like the deep, dark grays when coupled with black for two tone. I was reading some of the DuLite instructions. It really does not seem too complicated, just lengthy.

I understand bead blasted results in a matt finish whereas a fine sanding(was guessing bead blast, then work up from 400grit to 1000grit sand paper) should produce a more deep and gloss like finish. This stated, what type of bead media is everyone using; silicia, aluminum-oxide, glass?

Would anyone have further recommendations or insight for someone with no prior experience? I am just some "Bubba"..

Again, a large appreciation goes out to this community. Everyone here has been so generous and helpful to me.

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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
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Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:06 am 
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Phosphate will not be glossy unless it is floating in oil. You'll need bluing, nickel, or chrome for that. Blast with 320 grit. I use glass, others use alox.

When Parkerizing/phosphating you get the solution up to temp and the part goes in. When it stops fizzing it is done. Leaving it longer will not improve the results.

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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:40 am
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Location: NC

Post Posted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 12:15 pm 
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At least with the Du-Lite manganese if you highly polish a surface then put it in the tanks you'll get a very nice glossy or sheen to that area only. I've done some feed ramps to a mirror after I blasted the rest of the receiver and put it in the tanks. Comes out looking very nicely polished. Just not a mirror finish any more.

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Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:59 pm
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Post Posted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 12:53 pm 
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Great information guys.

KC, after setting the feed ramp angle and blasting the frame.. in which way did you polish the ramp? I would guess one could attack this by method of polishing compound and a buffing cloth? Perhaps those craytex(rubber balls affixed to shanks) dremel bits?

I was thinking a blasting, with a progressive work up on the slide flats via true sanding deck would produce a difference in "finish". Get a skimmed aluminum block, spray it with some glue. Slap a piece of sanding paper on it. By weight of slide only, polish each flat progressively until 1000grit.

Will this create any issues with the chemical adhesion of magnanese parkerizing?

I would rather the round top be "gritty" and "dull" for glare purposes and have the sides be more "pretty".

I greatly appreciate the both of you, BBBBill and KC's Kustom. You all are helping this novice greatly.

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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:40 am
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Location: NC

Post Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Felt bobs with diamond compound. Sanding you need a "buffer" between your block and the workpiece. I got sanding blocks from Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... ing+Block+ works great

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:59 pm 
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Thank you KC!

BBBBill, have any pictures of the finishes you do? I am curious about any difference in texture/quality of finish when using glass media. Mostly because of your comment. You use glass, versus others using aluminum oxide or 'alox'.

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