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1911Pro.com • View topic - Couple new shop tools

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 5:32 am 
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Thank you guys! Loved the information! I do have a plan on some climate control. Will have to power through winter unless I make money the next couple months! Haha. I'm either going to run a split mini or they have a self contained job'r at Lowe's that will heat/cool and dehumidifiy.
I had planned on closing the ceiling in initially but decided not to last minute. With the width of the trusses it was only 40" or so to the peak from my bottom cord so I didn't think I'd gain much. I've got Low E insulation under the roof metal and they say it's good stuff. The only things in the shop that I don't have insulated are the gable ends. I've got a little bit of the Low E left and thought I'd jump up there and just staple it across some of the framing.
Plus 100 on the chair. The thoughts crossed my mind several times. It would be nice to sit down once and a while and like you said celebrate with a cold one or try to forget what I just did with a cold one. Lol.
I just finished the final scale on the Z and got it calibrated. She's ready to go now. I think maybe next time I see a mill that's 1K more for DRO mounted I'd jump on it. Granted it was my first time mounting scales but I'm knocking on the door of 16hrs with everything mill wise to feel confident I'm making good moves on the table.
Once again thanks for the recommendations and compliments!

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:19 am 
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Your shop is coming along nicely. I have to run a dehumidifier 24/7 where I'm at. With the average humidity running 60% here it does not take long for things to start rusting. I have a small window unit for heat and cool. If I'm running the mill the phase converter kicks off enough heat for the AC to run. One thing I had to add after words was a small exhaust fan. The smoke coming off the cutting out got pretty bad at times. I add a small bathroom exhaust fan to one end of my shop near my lathe ( where I get most all the smoke from).

I mounted my DRO on both the Lathe and Mill. The mill was the easiest to setup due to 5 micro slides are not near as touchy as the 1 micron's I have on the lathe. Took me days to get all the brackets made. Then about another day getting the 1 micron slides to not kick off errors due to a 0.001" tracking error. Man those slides were touchy.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:34 am 
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:41 am 
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Continuing on with new set up. I picked up an 8" rotab to replace the light 6". I had previously made a plate with some 8" diameter stock so I put it on this one and got it fly cut to match tram. Center table, center plate, bore center to clean up and fly cut.
Next up is getting the dividing head out and figuring out how to use it. Lol. It'll also get a fixture made to checker modeled from Mr. Keefer's design. Hog did a beautiful job on his so I'll be reaching out here and there!

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:07 pm 
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I'm located in the Piney Woods of East Texas. Also know for lake country. I'm within 30 min of 5 lakes. My freezer is well stocked of crappie that I caught this summer. South of where Bo Pilgram's started his chicken farms business. He passed away this summer, 88-89 yrs old/young.

The DRO on the lathe has it's advantages. I only did 2 axis, X, Z (bed position). Mine is setup to give me dia on the x axis. I can have up to 9 tool stored in the DRO. So If I change cutting tools all I need to do is select the one I'm using and the offsets correct the readout. The DRO on the bed is nice for doing barrel work. It allow me to accurately measure by depth when I reaming the chamber and locate the gas port location with ease. I still use stops and double/triple check my measurements when I get close. So far I have not over shot any. I got one a little tighter than I liked but it worked just fine.

My DRO on the mill has a bunch of special functions. One is bolt patterns. I locate my center, then tell the DRO the radius for the holes and how many. It then puts up a graphical interface showing the locations, x,y positions. Then all I have to do is step through the holes. The last one I did was to make a barrel not wrench for a AR-10. The nut had like 21 holes. So I did 10 + 1 for the gas tube. Sure made it easy and quick.

I'm currently waiting for a 2.64 barrel blank to come available so I can complete my AR-10 in 6.5 CM. I have a spare Krieger blank for my 223R. It's for my heavy match barrel AR-15 sporting a 8x32 Nightforce Scope. I buy SS barrel for around here. Neighbors bring me guns to clean up for them and most are rusted due to the high humidity. Now these are truck guns that take a beating. Mainly used for wild hogs and varmints. Accuracy needed is minute of a Pig in most cases.

The last project I did on my mill and lathe was a part for a Kobota tractor. My neighbor tells me he has replaced it every year since he's owned it. He wanted a beefier part that would not fail. needed to cut a metric thread that was larger than my tap & die set so I did in on the lathe. All I can say is cutting metric threads on these lathes is a royal PITA.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 9:40 pm 
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Can't wait to see that build! Sounds like a great one!
Finally got the bench semi organized and actually did some work!

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 1:06 am 
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Came out nice.
I do have a question for those who blend then base in. Do you remove the sight before finishing the gun or leave it in place? If you remove it I'm assuming you are use a pusher that fits all the way down to the base.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:28 am 
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Post Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:46 pm 
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In keeping with Mr. Keefer's inspiration I've finally set out to make my checkering fixture for the dividing head now that I have the bigger machine. I'll update this as I go.
Started with a 5.5" round by 2 1/2" long chunk of aluminum. I believe it to be long enough. If not I've got a longer one I can use. I'll donate this one to learning. Lol. I first found the center and punched it. Then it was chucked in the lathe where it was faced. I then turned as much as I could without hitting the jaws on the OD to true it up. Next up was center drilling and boring. I ran a 1/2" bit through it then started with a small bar. I'm getting a lot of deflection in the small bar and it's taking forever cutting .012 at a time. I may look for a 1" bit tomorrow to speed this up.
The shoulder I turned is to set the platter up 3/8 so the handle doesn't interfere. I'll then try my hand at turning 1.5x8tpi internal threads. It could get hairy so stay tuned.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:20 am 
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Looks like you setup your shelf.

The 1.5 x8tpi is not hard provided you have a good heavy insert holder for internal threads. I've done several 1" x 20 (& 40) tpi blind holes which I hate doing since there is no room for run out (0.050"). What I have come to hate is cutting metric threads. It's a royal pita, since you can not disengage the threading system till your finish. Just go slow and don't rush it you will be fine.

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