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1911Pro.com • View topic - Understanding Sears and Hammers?

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It is currently Wed Jul 18, 2018 3:54 am

Board index » 1911s » 1911 Gunsmithing and Refinishing



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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2013 5:41 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Indiana

Post Posted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 6:48 am 
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Awesome. Thank you, Log.

Josh

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Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 6:26 am
Posts: 18

Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 4:37 am 
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I have been trying to understand sears, hammers and their relationship. It seems to me that there are too many variables too to get a common and repeatable result every time for a hammer job. Everything relies on the gun smith and how much experience he or she has. How accurate are all the components made, how much stacking of the tolerances is there? Is the frame made and drilled correctly. You can go on and on. So it seems to me that what will work and be repeatable is a new design of the sear disconnector, hammer and sear. That is where Karl Lippard comes in. He has designed a new sear hammer relationship. And don’t get the wrong impression; I AM NOT trying to sell them.
I would just like to drum up more conversation and gather more info and ideas from the forum about this subject. Maybe everyone likes the 1911 just like it is, no problem. I love with them also. That doesn’t mean there is not room for improvement and a better firing system to gain a safer and more reliable gun for the target shooter and the carry gun. I would like to see a 1911 with a trigger pull of 2 lb. that was safe to carry. I know that I shoot better with a 3.5 lb. trigger pull than with a 5 or 6 lb. trigger pull. That may be just me or perhaps training, I don’t know. The lighter trigger pull is a tradeoff now. I believe you need more training and more awareness of your carry gun at all times with a lighter trigger pull. It would be really nice to carry a 1911 with a 2 lb. trigger pull that was safe for you and the people around you.
Vern

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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:59 pm
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Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 6:02 am 
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All the factors you mention would be applicable to the Lippard parts as well.


A safe 2# trigger is doable. Those of us that tune that low don't push it, as there are some too fast to rush in, and try to do that right off. The TR sear is a very safe concept and has proven itself, both in theory and in practical use, at very low pull weights as well.

It takes awhile to fully understand the hammer/sear points of geometry that matter, but once you do, you realize that light triggers are safe unto themselves. Who's handling it is the greatest concern.

LOG

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Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 2:48 am
Posts: 621
Location: Northern Virginia

Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:05 am 
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Thunder Pickle...Have you read the whole thread prior to adding to it with your concerns?
A lot of good thought and brainstorming is here.
Joe

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Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 7:20 pm 
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Yes, I have read them all and a lot more. What I am talking about is a new design of a very old concept. The old concept is a very, very good, no one doubts that. But, I know from experience that any design can be made better. Perhaps a design where stacking tolerances have less effect! And DIY would be safer for everyone.

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Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 7:35 pm 
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First you might benefit from learning to do a very safe and dependable trigger job, crisp break, no creep, at 2#. Not really hard, but takes understanding, not drop in. What's the harm in doing that? Learning how to perfect the sear and hammer engagement.

Have you determined how much it takes to release your hammer without the sear spring for example. A lot can be learned from the antiquated system.

New things are great. Do you have a clear mental picture of the differences between the std. sear primary, and a TR sear primary?

LOG

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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:12 pm 
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I have been trying to understand 1911 trigger for some time now, ruined a small bag of parts, and ended up being able to do a 3# pull with a small bit of creep if I use a lightweight trigger. I like that small creep for my own safety.

You guys who are doing 2# triggers- I dont doubt your words or capabilities, but want to learn: is this on guns with full power recoil springs and steel triggers?
In my mind one needs a lightweight trigger to avoid it setting off the sear if the gun is held loose when the slide slams home during loading, especially when the sear and trigger springs are lightened.
Or am I completely missing something?

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Post Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 12:46 am 
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Here is a picture of a sear and hammer that according to the designer solves the problem of the sear primary, secondary and most problems with the sear and hammer interface?

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Post Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 12:48 am 
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Post Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:28 am 
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