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1911Pro.com • View topic - Understanding Sears and Hammers?

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It is currently Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:42 am

Board index » 1911s » 1911 Gunsmithing and Refinishing



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Post Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 3:13 pm 
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Thundepickle,
Get to something substantive, or, don't bother posting.
We are not big on banning and deleting around here, so consider this your 1, and only, warning.


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Post Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 8:44 pm 
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Here is a video of the Lippard set I have. I placed the parts in a gun that has had a reliable, ultra crisp 1.75 lb trigger pull for north of 30k rounds in the span of about 2 years (a TR sear nonetheless) :) . The pull increased to about 5 lbs after installing the A3 parts, and has a ton of creep. There were about 4 other frames I've tried this set in with the same results, each frame was measured and verified by a CMM to be within blueprint spec for hole location.

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Last edited by Eric Woodward on Sat May 30, 2015 12:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 9:36 pm 
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.....and there you have it. The only criticism I have, is that moving the engagement closer to the pin = longer pull to release, much the same as moving a trigger lever on a BHP.

.....obviously mirrored by Erics results, and exactly opposite of what TP claimed.

CW

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 7:16 am 
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Post Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 1:32 am 
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newby here. just joined the forum as well as just shot my first semi auto anything. I also just built my first handgun. I spent about 3 weeks studying the hand gun drawings and many "how not to" videos on youtube. last week I recieved my 80% frame and 3 days later I was firing it. during my safety checks I found that the hammer was chasing the slide. I researched the issue and came upon a solution that at this time is not ideal but for the present it works. I saw many pictures and drawings and at that time determined that my original sear angle was incorrect. i determined that my angle was not allowing enough contact on the hammer/sear interface to secure the hammer when it was cocked. I addressed the sear and the hammer both and after adjusting sear spring I arrive at a 5.5 lb trigger pull. I am not an expert but the trigger seemed to be quite a lot easier than my 357 S&W. I found that I could actually shoot better with the 1911 without sights than I could the revolver. by the way my sights came in today. I went to the cad software and created the hammer and sear in cad so I could see the interaction. after rotating and simulating the action I became somewhat confused about the whole thing. looking at my drawings the contact point between the sear and the hammer was not a flat surface. it was a tiny point were the angle of the hammer contacted the sear. I spent more time researching and then i found this discussion. I must say that I did have a 100 watt go off in my head when I went through the discussion.

1. the hammer/sear contact is not flat to flat. It is point to flat.
2. the hammer ledge height can be only as high as the sear will allow with out hooking over the sear. any greater just creates unnecessary burdens on the trigger.

add this to the geometry of the true radius sear and I do believe I got it. If I want to maintain a very safe trigger I can go positive on the trigger angle to facilitate more latching by the hammer. this is of course sacrificing easy trigger pull to degrees. I will redo my hammer and sear when the new parts come in. I did also find an interesting thing occurred when I checked my thumb safety. I initially thought that I did a fine job on the safety fitting. the trigger would not allow the hammer to drop, all was good. after a little more testing and following the action I pulled a little harder on the trigger. it move ever so slightly with a little click. I thought this was interesting and pulled the grip safety off to watch the trigger movement. I followed it up to the sear and saw it move. curious I thought. It occured to me that I might check the trigger pull after I made this little click. I flipped the thumb safety off, put my trigger gage on and discovered that the 5.5 lb trigger pull was now a 1/2 lb trigger pull. needless to say I ordered another thumb safety. Im sure I can peen something or smash some metal to raise the surface but i want to have a 100 percent weapon and not start with a make shift fix.

I have one other issue with the lockup on the last round. I am checking this also. maybe magazine, maybe slide lock, Ill get it sorted soon. I am very pleased with the outcome sofar and look forward to firing this handgun regularly. I was immediately impressed with the trigger and now understand how much the trigger can make a difference. I do plan to use the traditional sear fitting for now just to get the feel for the fitting and the operation of the weapon. I plan to stay with a trigger above 4.5 lb till I get more time behind the wheel. I also plan to purchase the TR sear jig so that when I graduate from my training wheels I can get that smooth trigger you guys are talking about. when I do the TR sear I want to be able to appreciate the difference. thats just the way I do things.

thanks for all your help.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:43 pm 
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I have a question regarding the TR. I see a lot of convo about it being used for 4-4.5# triggers, what about lower weight triggers such as 2.5 or even 1.5 race type guns? Any reason it wouldn't be feasible for something like that?

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:04 pm 
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Post Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:26 pm 
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Post Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:46 pm 
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Lower weights are just as easy as with any other design. the best benefit once the TR is used, is improving the feel by breaking the sharp edge of the hammer hook tips....


CW

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 1:38 pm 
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I have built many 2 pound trigger with the TR sear for dedicated 22 conversion lowers used in bullseye. Works like a dream.

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