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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 4:54 pm 
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I attempted my first frame tightening exercise. I have a Springfield Loaded Stainless 9MM that was quite sloppy on the fit between the slide and frame. The bottom of the slide was lumpy and twisted. I have access to a mill and I had to do some true up work on the bottom of the slide. I am using the peen down in four place method like described in Jerry Kuhnhausen’s book. It takes a lot of time and patients to bend, dye-chem, try, file, over and over. I probably have 8 hours in the work so far. I have the fit looking much, much better now and am almost complete. However I just noticed after applying dye-chem again that a crack has formed on the rear right rail. The crack starts in the mag hole and runs toward the rail. I have tried to upload a pic so you can see, but cannot seem to figure out how to post pics. I am a very experienced TIG welder with a lot of high tensile stainless experience. I do not want to weld on the stainless frame for fear of messing up the hardness and that might lead to all sorts of problems. Does the crack matter in this location? Should I just drill the end to stop it from running and leave it? Have I trashed the frame?

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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:29 pm
Posts: 647
Location: Mass.

Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:47 am 
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In checked cracks will usually grow or create an uneven surface for the slide to travel over. I used to see this a lot in Hifg Standard 22's. I am a TIG student, but LogMan on this forum is a master and can advise you on rod and the need for pre heat and heat sinks on this. That area can warp easily and make for a lot of extra work to correct. To post images, start a photobucket account, upload images, you will get four optioned for link to the photo on their server, pick the bottom one, click which will copy the link, then paste into your forum post. Good luck.

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Greg Derr
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:28 pm 
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[img]<a%20href="http://s1302.beta.photobucket.com/user/rs1954/media/crack1_zpsec12cc39.jpg.html"%20target="_blank"><img%20src="http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag126/rs1954/crack1_zpsec12cc39.jpg"%20border="0"%20alt="%20photo%20crack1_zpsec12cc39.jpg"/></a>[/img]

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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:33 pm 
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Image

Maybe this will work

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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:13 pm 
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Not much feedback on this one. I thought that surely you guys had seen this before and would have advice for the best fix. Maybe that is a sign that it is not a fixable problem. Does anyone know the best source of a new frame for replacement of this mess? Do I have to do anything special related serial number issues to replace the frame?

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Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:45 pm
Posts: 647
Location: the Sandhills of NC

Post Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:13 am 
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I would replace the frame on this one.

JM

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John McKenzie

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Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:12 am
Posts: 186

Post Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:49 am 
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You are in one of those areas that are completely a personal call. Can it be repaired? Sure thing.
And only you can say how much effort you are willing to put in it. I've personally done much more, for much less.
If you really want to have a go at it, we'll need to know *which* Stainless it is. Everything that is broken can be repaired.

But...

No one but you can make the call, but if it were my own, personal frame I would either make it a set
up piece or something to practice metalworking on, or shelve it for the day when you've the skills, time,
and inclination to tackle it. I had a frame crack just like that one did ( back in '89 or '90 ) and from doing
exactly what you were doing. If I remember correctly, we used it for a fixture after that.
( and I TiG Stainless all the time ) Just my two pence.

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Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:38 am
Posts: 1982
Location: New Mexico

Post Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:02 am 
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Remove bad material, weld or silver solder replacement, remachine..

then you izza gunsmiff!

Id fix it if it were mine.

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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:14 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:38 pm 
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Yup. What Mr Warner says. It is the challenge that delights.

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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:29 pm
Posts: 647
Location: Mass.

Post Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:54 pm 
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Just for future reference, peening the rails should only be done at the front and back maybe 3/4 of an inch. Peening should have spacer blocks in the rail keyway to prevent over peening and or cracking.

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Greg Derr
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