1911Pro.com

The 1911 Forum For Professional & DIY Gunsmithing
It is currently Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:23 am

Board index » 1911s » 1911 Gunsmithing and Refinishing



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 42 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
Author Message

Offline

Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:31 pm
Posts: 10

Post Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 11:45 pm 
Top  
Jolly Rogers wrote:
Where else will you get a discussion like this? So refreshing to get good advice detailed information and no name calling...
Joe


Not to mention the information provided for those like me!

I feel better about things. I went to an Ace Hardware and picked up a half dozen 1/16" roll pins to have some extras. I lubed the channel in the gun, lubed the pin, and used a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold the pin in place to get it started. No problem there. I then used my punch--not roll pin holder or roll pin punch, just a regular steel punch--and drove it with light successive taps until it was flush. Like LOG said, light taps. (I can't imagine why the Kimber roll pin bordered on impossible to remove). I then took it out.

This tells me that I'll have no issues come the day of the fix.

I feel empowered to be able to do these fixes on my own, insignificant as they may be.

Again, I couldn't have done it without the input and discussion by you guys. Thanks again!

I'll post a pic when the job is done.


FWIW, I wonder how many of you guys use the left handed drill method as done by Dawson Precision in this YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZcHXODZvfE, and how many mark the stem, remove, and use files, mills, or what have you.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:35 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Tidewater VA

Post Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 1:20 am 
Top  
Well I am prone to overkill. Last 2 ejector pins I replaced I fashioned from remnants of a 1/16" drill bit. First one I needed to fix on a weekend so I dug around in my dull/broken drill bit collection found a bit piece long enough, adjusted the length champhered the ends degreased an drop of blue lock tite a minor tap tap and done. First one went so well I repeated on the second. In neither case did the ejector break just seemed a bit loose and investigation revealed damaged roll pins. I might add that both were fairly high round count DWs. One a Patriot Marksman and one a CBOB.

_________________
Semper Paratus
(Always Prepared)
Hal

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:16 am
Posts: 820
Location: Eastern Iowa

Post Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:10 am 
Top  
lbmcse wrote:

FWIW, I wonder how many of you guys use the left handed drill method as done by Dawson Precision in this YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZcHXODZvfE, and how many mark the stem, remove, and use files, mills, or what have you.



I've been using the Dawson Drill for the last half a dozen or so and it works really slick...... It does save a ton of time compared to the usual mark and file method.

_________________
Director
Midwest Training Group (MTG)
www.midwesttraininggroup.net

 Profile WWW  

Offline

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:14 am
Posts: 608
Location: Colorado

Post Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:13 am 
Top  
being one of the least skilled in such matters, I did use the mark and file method. It worked well for me so far, and made me feel pretty good when it went in with a press type fit.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:31 pm
Posts: 10

Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:48 pm 
Top  
Jeff wrote:
being one of the least skilled in such matters, I did use the mark and file method. It worked well for me so far, and made me feel pretty good when it went in with a press type fit.


Did you start filing a hair above your mark to facilitate the pin pulling somewhat down on the ejector? I've read this in other places. Wonder if there's merit to it; as there's got to be a point where one might go too high, necessitating a new ejector.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:59 pm
Posts: 696

Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:22 pm 
Top  
lbmcse wrote:
Did you start filing a hair above your mark to facilitate the pin pulling somewhat down on the ejector? I've read this in other places. Wonder if there's merit to it; as there's got to be a point where one might go too high, necessitating a new ejector.



Well, obviously too high will require further fitting, but the ejector would not be ruined, as the bottom side of the notch is what holds it down, the upper side does nothing, so not touching on the upper side is fine.


LOG

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:14 am
Posts: 608
Location: Colorado

Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:02 am 
Top  
I did my best to file it nearly flush with the inside of the hole, looked through it as squarely as I could until I saw or imagined a thou or so of the pin on the bottom of the hole. The pin is slightly chamfered and I was using some magnification, it's tight. The funniest part is the ejector is not pretty by anyones standards due to my less than experienced fitting, filing, but it's tight too and working so I'm done with it.

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:14 am
Posts: 608
Location: Colorado

Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:06 am 
Top  
Log.
A question. Wouldn't ideal fitting of the pin be snug all the way around the arc? Especially with a less than perfect fit of the ejector legs, say a bit loose?

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:59 pm
Posts: 696

Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:06 am 
Top  
Jeff wrote:
Log.
A question. Wouldn't ideal fitting of the pin be snug all the way around the arc? Especially with a less than perfect fit of the ejector legs, say a bit loose?

If the dowel pin is pulling the ejector leg down/tight, so the base is tight to the deck the top side of the notch wouldn't need tension or really benefit from it. This is not to say and agree that if the ejector leg notch was cut with a mill when the ejector was clamped tight to the deck it would be said to be perfect. That said I would not suggest making the notch tight in all directions as that would be like a wedge, and perhaps more tension then the leg could take. It only needs to be snug on the bottom of the notch pulling it down. So the point was if too high it can be lowered so the pin can hold it down. It wouldn't be ruined, and would fully expect as long a life as any other.

LOG

 Profile  

Offline

Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:31 pm
Posts: 10

Post Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:12 pm 
Top  
Success. I tapped the ejector down with a nylon mallet, but it didn't seem necessary since it was clear the part was bottomed out at both posts. Using a protected clamp to hold downward pressure on the ejector, I used a left handed drill bit through the frame's hole, and with speed on low and using copious amounts of oil; I massaged it through very gently until the cutout was achieved. When I removed the ejector to inspect, the cutout appeared like it was manufactured that way. Drove the roll pin into place and checked the fit. It's rock solid.

Another job well done thanks to the help of you all. Much appreciated.

 Profile  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 42 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

Jump to:  


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 2 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum
cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group :: Style based on FI Subice by phpBBservice.nl :: All times are UTC [ DST ]