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1911Pro.com • View topic - Ejector retaining roll-pin

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It is currently Mon Sep 24, 2018 12:55 pm

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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:31 pm
Posts: 10

Post Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:00 pm 
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I recently had my ejector split vertically and Kimber is replacing it. The 1911 firearm is an Eclipse Ultra II.

I had located a left-handed 1/16" drill bit, in anticpation of the part arriving; only to find that I can't get the roll pin out.

Kuhnhausen suggests knocking the pin out from the left side of the frame.

The pin sits flush with the frame on the left, and is recessed ever so slightly on the right. Unless my eyes are playing tricks, the hole on the right side of the frame looks smaller (maybe by less than 1/64"), but I can't imagine this tunnel is tapered.

My question is, is there any reason why I can't knock it out from the right side? Is there a chance that the roll pin is loctitighted in place? I'd love to do this job by myself, but I'm not going to mar the pin or the frame when the pin seems to be immobilized.

Here's the post on the other forum:

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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:59 pm
Posts: 697

Post Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:09 pm 
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If you drive it right to left you must drive it the full way, left to right and it's free with very little movement. It isn't tapered 1/16" punch.

LOG

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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
Posts: 997
Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:12 pm 
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Does Kimber use a roll pin or the correct solid pin?

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:33 pm 
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Thank you for the helpful advice, Log. :)

My 1/16" punch isn't budging the pin. The last thing I want to do is booger up that roll pin.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:34 pm 
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BBBBill, it's a roll pin, either that or a hollow metallic tube. :)

If you click on the link in the first post, you can see the pin well enough.

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:31 am 
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I haven't removed that many, but haven't encountered a stubborn pin. It does require that you tap the punch with a hammer, I find a 4oz. hammer to be plenty. The punch should be just under 1/16"(.0625") measure yours, no peened edges, if so clean up prior. There are specific roll pin punches but haven't seen the need for this one. The pin is cheap so not much of a loss, but haven't lost one either.

LOG

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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:20 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:36 am 
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Personally I hate the use of a roll pin here. I've had too many that bound inside the frame hole when trying to install them. I bought a box of 100 1/16" x .625 dowel pins from MSC for this use. They're cheap, and perhaps about .020 too long on some frame, but a touch of one tip to the belt sander solves that problem.

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Don Williams
http://www.theactionworks.com
http://www.ltwguns.com

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Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:38 pm
Posts: 1421
Location: SC

Post Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 4:37 am 
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I do the same thing as Don. You can buy a 100 dowel pins from a tool supply company like MSC for very little vs. buying a "Colt ejector pin" from Brownells.

I've been meaning to buy some 1/16" "coiled spring pins," which are kind of a heavy duty roll pin. Every time I place an order, I forget to include them.


I'm hoping that they provide the best of both a solid pin and a spring pin.

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Dave Berryhill

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Location: NV, PRK

Post Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:42 am 
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Ray

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:47 pm 
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I put a drop of light machine oil on both sides of the pin, and after 12 hours penetrating time, was able to drive it out, could only get it out from the right. The ejector came out with no issues.

You guys sharing experience is much appreciated!

EDIT: got the new ejector from Kimber today. I dropped it in to observe fit after measuring both legs, and the fit is good. Waiting for my drill bits to arrive. Can't say I'm looking forward to getting this pin back in!

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