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1911Pro.com • View topic - Planning an amateur building/learning experience

1911Pro.com

The 1911 Forum For Professional & DIY Gunsmithing
It is currently Tue Jul 17, 2018 3:14 am

Board index » 1911s » Amateur & DIY 1911s



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Post Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 9:29 pm 
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:02 pm 
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Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 1:12 am 
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Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Send the slide to JEM and have them fit it to their frame. They can make the sight cuts and serrations of your choosing. Also have them throw in their beavertail. Have fun!

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 8:41 am 
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:40 pm 
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The JEM kit is the way to go. There will still be plenty of "gunsmithing" to do. Really all you need is a good set of dial calipers if you plan on making guns on a workbench. The brownells barrel fitting tools come in handy as well.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 12:20 am 
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For those thinking about plunging into building 1911s and gaining insightful experience, I usually have one point to make that I learned years ago when starting with inexpensive sacrificial parts - of which I have boxes of. The quality difference between a great aftermarket part and a cheaper part is two-fold, one in the materials, and another in the dimensions and tolerance. Being able to measure and "blueprint" a part is a skill that needs to be developed, but being able to translate measurements into a repeatable and accurate plan of action and executing that action is where lots of learning comes into play. I have often found cheaper parts are great for figuring out how mechanisms operate, but not so great for translating the difficulty in fitting a more traditionally over sized gunsmith fit part which has another set different challenges.

For example, I possess numerous cast GI parts sets where the thumb safety fits into the frame nicely, if not loosely, and also by some miracle actually blocks the sear (again using GI hammer/sear). I may tune the sponginess at the detent some, but otherwise have had tremendous luck without much work.

Next, consider an aftermarket ambidextrous thumb safety where the two halves do not fit securely, lots of material to remove on the sear block, more material to remove that allows the sear enough movement to allow the hammer to drop when the safety is disengaged, interference with the slide when disengaged, and also clearance added to allow the safety to rotate freely through the thumb safety window. Then there's blending.

Just something to consider :)

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:53 pm 
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Hey MuzzlwDiscipline, Thanks for starting this thread.
I joined this forum to read up on 1911 smithing as I'm thinking about making the plunge after we resettle closer to the grand kids.

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