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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:37 pm 
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Got into a discussion with a friend, about how one can do a controlled installation of the locking ball often put on S&W revolvers after installing a heavy match barrel.
I've done it once, with a borrowed drilling jig and swaging punch, but where we start the discussion is how the cut in the frame is done. I did mine with a dremel, after marking the frame so I could see where the ball travels, and cut the detent hole by hand, feeling for lockup between cuts as I slowly took a bit more at a time until I was satisfied with the locking effect. "by luck and feel"..

My friend wants to eliminate any chance of over cutting the detent hole, preferrably by using known coordinates and machining the detent in a mill.. Has anybody done this, and are there any satisfactory known coordiantes out there? or is the guesswork needed even when the operation is done in a machine?

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Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:38 am
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Location: New Mexico

Post Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:18 am 
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Co ordinates will vary for every installation.


CW

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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 8:26 am 
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Thanks. I guess we'll bring out the dremel again then :D

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 11:32 pm 
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evert wrote:
Thanks. I guess we'll bring out the dremel again then :D

NOOOO.. Wait.. I did a revolver once...:):):) Perhaps the picture parade will answer some questions for you..And you are correct, if you miss the detent location, it's all over.. very difficult to fix.. There are several ways to hold the crane.. You can make a locking block, or use a 5C collet fixture.. The pics at the end show a hold open detent..
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Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2015 11:50 am
Posts: 32

Post Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:48 am 
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Thanks for the pictures, That really shows what can be done with the right equipment = No Dremel Tool..

Your posts are one of the reasons I still lurk around here = Too Learn.. & Of Course log man..

Thanks again!!
Gary/Hk

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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
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Post Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:35 pm 
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As always, your pictures and setups are superior Mr. Keefer!

Do you have any hints on how you locate the cut in the frame, except for using the track made by the locking ball as a reference for guesstimates and eyeballing?

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
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Post Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:45 pm 
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evert wrote:
As always, your pictures and setups are superior Mr. Keefer!

Do you have any hints on how you locate the cut in the frame, except for using the track made by the locking ball as a reference for guesstimates and eyeballing?

I make a distinct witness mark as can be seen in one of the pictures.. Then I use the ground pointed punch to align the spindle with the exact end of the mark. The frame must be canted at an angle to allow clearance for the tool..The adjustable compound vise allows for minute positioning. I have done hundreds of these and it works every time..I use a long reach center drill to start the cut to prevent skating on the canted surface.. Then switch to the radius drill. There is clearance to repeatedly try the yoke for the resistance desired.

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:47 pm 
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Thanks for the explanation, that helps a lot.

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