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1911Pro.com • View topic - Revolver work

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It is currently Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:43 pm

Board index » Other Firearms & Information » Revolvers



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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:52 am 
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That bronze bearing looks like a very good idea!
I see you have done some work on the spring too- is it reduced, or just polished?

edit: spelling


Last edited by evert on Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 2:33 pm 
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The spring is factory, except for removing rough tool marks, rounding the edges and polish..
Jerry

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 3:00 am 
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Another little but, very effective revolver trick..Ever reload and have the trigger pull weight double or triple..??
Unburnt powder granules have become trapped under the ejector. Here I am undercutting it approx. .010 to provide some
clearance should errant granules become trapped there.


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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
Posts: 997
Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 4:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:43 am 
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Hi BBBBill
Yes, I am a firm believer in polish. I want the center pin boss, and the recoil plate polished.. If it moves, I polish it..:)
Collets..I love collets.. The limit is your imagination.. I am always looking for and buying collets on E-Bay.. I picked up two new/old in the original boxes, Hardinge 2J collets last week. $110. dollars worth for 30 bucks..It pays to watch e-bay.. Just wish I had more time.. Also, if you notice, I use roll pin drivers.. If the drive pin is in the way for another job, I squeeze it in the vise, and pull it out. Quality collets are fairly high rockwell and requires carbide tooling to drill the holes. I use a pilot drill first and finish with a four flute carbide endmill.

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:51 am 
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[quote="evert"]That bronze bearing looks like a very good idea!
Years ago, back in the PPC days, when I got the idea, my main concern was how durable the bearing would be against the gases. That's why I chose bronze over brass.. The first gun is still running after many years, and the gas has zero effect on the bearings.

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Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:26 pm
Posts: 1

Post Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 12:14 am 
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Damn, I love a nice 3" K frame.. May just be the perfect revolver!

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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
Posts: 997
Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:01 pm 
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Does anyone make/sell a Taylor throating reamer or do the smiths do it with the barrel in the lathe?

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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:25 pm
Posts: 7

Post Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:23 pm 
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Mr. Keefer- great post as usual. Found the right model 10 at last, ready to begin. Two questions if I may. !. Did you purchase or make the front sight? Can't find one without a roll pin hole. 2. Recommended free bore length for the Taylor throat?
I've read 1 to 2 calibers in length, but, this seems to bee a great deal of leeway. Also read about .400 or .530 inches. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again to you and the other pros who share their knowledge with we hobby types.

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