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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:13 pm 
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Some revolver work..
This is an old beat up Model 10.. The owner wanted a super slick 3 inch IDPA revolver..Shorten barrel, Dovetailed front sight. Checkered back strap and a round butt. Barrel was set back one turn due to excessive cylinder/barrel gap. All internals polished and trued/squared on the surface grinder.
Cutting off a chunk..
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Face driver, used for machining the barrel face
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This barrel required .028
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Finished showing the Taylor Throat
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Set for the correct torque
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Squaring and truing the barrel extension
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Setting the end gap and truing the cylinder face
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Square and align yoke for drilling and installation of a spring loaded lock..
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Drill approx. .250 with # 30
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Tool and parts
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Finished..More to follow later
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Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:42 pm
Posts: 16

Post Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:31 pm 
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I've got a very jealous Model 14-6 that needs your TLC for Distinguished Revolver and Harry Reeves matches.

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Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:16 am
Posts: 820
Location: Eastern Iowa

Post Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:38 pm 
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Loving this thread... Keep it coming Jerry!!

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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 17

Post Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 1:02 am 
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Really like those serrations in the top of the barrel. High quality work as usual. Are you going to double the ball crane lock or do you even think there is an advantage to using two?

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 4:53 am 
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CCW1911;
The instructions often referred to when installing ball locks, state that a Dremel held 1/8 diameter ball cutter be used to cut a pocket in the frame for the ball lock.. That was / is very wishful thinking at best..
If the pocket is in fact 1/8 diameter the amount of ball radius protruding from the yoke is not going to match, even if it dead center alignment, which is impossible by hand... There will be play or slop in the fit up.. Often a second ball was installed to overcome the first mis-fit ball. One is very good, providing it's on center, and not to deep.
Here I am lining up the spindle with the mark on the frame.
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Compound vise used to position the frame.
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Finish indent
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High ratchets
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I like them at least .005 below the center pin boss. You can see these were quite high and rubbed the recoil plate. I also, although not shown here is to chamfer the top of the ratchet and polish, which allows the hand to slip down over the top with less resistance, as the trigger resets.. The underside of the hand is also polished.
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Blue shot of the detent ball
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Blue shot of the frame
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Here is a common fault with some guns. .The cylinder will rotate backwards while the hammer is at rest. This is caused by the trigger caming surface /cylinder lock interface being out of time. Here I am correcting it by removing .005 from under the trigger nose. This condition actually pulls the cyl.lock out of engagement while at rest. It doesn't take much.
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Top strap shot. The sight window has been enlarged and and contoured to match the barrel plane
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Muzzle end.
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Dove tail sight.. and rust pits that I could not completely remove without disturbing the lettering.. The customer did not want to bother with that. Oh well.
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Side shot
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Back strap 20 LPI
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If you look closely, you can see were I added a spot of hard brass to the cylinder release bolt, where it makes contact with the inside of the side plate. By machining this brass spot to the proper height, the bolt is restricted to minimum side play preventing contact with the hammer, and makes the thumb release feel very smooth in operation. The bolt has also been thinned to prevent hammer rub. The hammer has been lightened considerably. An internal trigger stop, the length of which is carefully adjusted to DA only.
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Assembled and ready for the side plate.
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Extractor rod plunger is machined to 5 degrees.. You can see the high spot on this one which resists free rotation of the cylinder. The extractor rod is counter bored also with a matching 5 degree angle, and allows the two parts to accurately interface. The center pin length is adjusted to prevent the spring from over loading the cylinder release bolt, and acting as a brake on the rotating cylinder.
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Two axis indicated crown. Same process with the Taylor Throat.
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Finished round butt cuts.
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Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:45 pm
Posts: 995
Location: Florida and Alabama

Post Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:14 am 
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I love a good revolver! There's a bag full of tricks here for those of us who like to work on them. I like that bolt mod. Do you also put a slight chamfer the nose of the hammer block to prevent potential stubbing on the underside of the hammer?

[quote=Jerry Keefer] The cylinder will rotate backwards while the hammer is at rest. This is caused by the trigger caming surface /cylinder lock interface being out of time. Here I am correcting it by removing .005 from under the trigger nose. [/quote]

I've seen the fix for that problem attempted by removing material from the mating surface on the cylinder stop with negative results. The bolt popped up too early. Lots of surfaces on the cylinder stop (and hammer, trigger, rebound slide, hand) that all have to be fit just so.

You're killin' me with all of those pics of the surface grinder in use. I never would have thought of using one in lieu of a mill or lathe for those jobs. So much precision....

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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:52 pm
Posts: 76

Post Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:01 pm 
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This is just stunning to an amateur tinkerer like me! Thanks for sharing, and I must say, the three inch K-frame round butt is just about perfect!

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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:28 am
Posts: 1230

Post Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:24 pm 
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Another seldom seen accuracy modification. This is a brass/bronze bushing inserted in place of the factory gas ring. The factory gas rings are very poorly fit and add nothing to the stabilization of the cylinder. The machined insert can be precisely fit to the yoke tube with minimum clearance. It also gives a much larger area of support, and keeps the cylinder precisely aligned with the bore C/L. It also permits running very close cylinder barrels gaps, by closely coordinating the the yoke end and the bushing end to adjust end play. In other words both ends can support the load.
These pics are old and not the best quality.. I'll try to get the owner of this piece to bring it in for some better photos..
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:41 pm
Posts: 91
Location: North Carolina

Post Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:11 pm 
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very cool Jerry

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Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:16 am
Posts: 820
Location: Eastern Iowa

Post Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 10:17 pm 
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A metric ton of good stuff there Jerry..... wow!

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