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Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:15 am
Posts: 37

Post Posted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:20 am 
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Hello,

The trigger pin is removed from Right to Left, so drive the pin from the ejection port side towards the left.

With the slide off the pistol & the safety engaged, put a few layers of masking tape around the pin in case your brass punch slips and lay the frame on a Brownells #413-001-002WB Leather Vise Jaw Pad that's been placed on a Very Solid Surface. The grip area will need to hang over the edge of the work surface in order for the pin area of the frame to lay perfectly flat & solid. Now, put your 1/4" Dia. Brass Punch on the Rounded End thats sticking out past the Right Side of the frame & give it good solid taps with a hammer untill it breaks loose. Once the pin has broken loose, just lay the frame on a Brownells Non-Marring, Plastic Bench Block #080-000-493WB or just lay the frame on your leg and finish driving the pin out with a 3/32 Pin Punch, it will only be tight for a short distance.

Brownells Non-Marring Bench Block.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... =ir&ch=aff

The leather vise jaw pad will protect the frame & soak up the bounce, it will also allow the pin to sink into it when it breaks loose.

The trigger axis pin isn't tapered, it's original spec is .117" Dia. all the way across, the hole in the R.H. Side of the frame is under-sized to firmly hold the pin, so be sure to only drive the pin out from Right to Left. Current production FN-Browning Matte Finished Trigger Pin's measure .1176" Dia. all the way across.

Oil the trigger pin & frame holes before reinstalling and ONLY install the trigger pin from Left to Right.

Here's a link to the Leather Vise Jaw Pads.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... 17777.aspx

Note: The leather vise jaw pads mentioned above is also excellent for laying the trigger on when removing the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin, because the leather soaks up the bounce! And the leather allows the pins to sink into it when they break loose. Once the disconnect pin & trigger spring pin have broken loose, then place the trigger on a Starrett No. 129 Bench Block (or any steel bench block with through holes) and finish driving the pin(s) out.

Also Note: Engaging the safety has nothing to do with getting the trigger pin out. I only put the safety in the on position as a precautionary measure to block the sear and prevent the hammer from falling & smashing into the sear-nose in the event that the sear were to bounce and disengage the hammer hook.

_________________
"LONG LIVE THE FN-BROWNING HIGH POWER"
John Browning & Dieudonne Saive's Designs Will Always be Light Years Ahead of All the Others.
I'd rather beat a bad guy to death with my Browning High Power, than shoot him dead with a plastic pistol.

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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:20 pm
Posts: 228

Post Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 3:07 am 
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Bob, Rather than use masking tape to protect the frame, I use small sections of plastic milk cartons to protect the frame and pin. I just lay a piece over the pin, and smack it with hammer and punch, and it does a great job of protecting the frame and the end of the pin (this tip was courtesy of Pete Single).

_________________
Don Williams
http://www.theactionworks.com
http://www.ltwguns.com

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Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:15 am
Posts: 37

Post Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 2:41 pm 
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Hello Don,

That's an excellent idea - Thanks to you (and Pete) for passing along the tip.

Several years ago, I started using those little Reward Cards (Thanks to you again, for that tip too) in place of the double layered tape. I cut a 1/8" hole in the plastic card with my hand held hole punch and place the card over the pin. But, as you also know, the plastic cards are too thick when it comes to setting the reinstalled pin flush with the frame - so at that point, I switch back to the double layered tape for the last coupla taps.

BTW: The little plastic reward cards work great for holding the rear of the sear lever in the down position (for firing pin removal) on the firing pin block equipped HP's. Just fold the card in half and wedge it in the forward area of the sear lever channel to hold the rear of the lever down and off of the firing pin.

Thanks again Don, it's always good hearing from you and I hope all is well out your way.

_________________
"LONG LIVE THE FN-BROWNING HIGH POWER"
John Browning & Dieudonne Saive's Designs Will Always be Light Years Ahead of All the Others.
I'd rather beat a bad guy to death with my Browning High Power, than shoot him dead with a plastic pistol.

 Profile  
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