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1911Pro.com • View topic - S&A Magwell

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:19 am 
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These are straight Gov. model S&A mag wells.

Tips are how I do it. First I want the mag flange to fit up tight to the frame and since Allen Smith wants his mag wells to fit a wide range of frames he positions the hole a scoosh high. So, first I file the flange surface flat so it will mate with the bottom of the frame.

Then with an 1/8" and then a 5/32" chainsaw file I lower the hole so that I can hold the flange up tight against the frame with the pin through the hole in the frame and mag well.

I then TIG weld the upper portion of the hole rolling the weld puddle pretty deep into the hole. After a few minutes cooling I check if the weld at the side need to be flattened and get it to go back in and up. Take a look and proceed to file the weld with a needle file until I can get the 1/8" CS file in both sides and slowly round the weld out until I get the tip of the 5/32" CS file to go in and have found you can simply rotate it back and forth until it will just go through. Check with the pin and most will go in tight at this point and I leave it tight for fitting and blending. This procedure takes 1/2 an hour.

I use a Foredom, but a Dremel will work as well, I use a cone shaped carbide burr and start the blending process. I find using exam gloves is pretty good at keeping the splinters free of my hands I also wear a leather apron so I can hold the frame solid against my chest and go at it, keep it moving and you get a sort of a wipe it off, wipe it off, action. Once roughed in and happy cause I'm done with the splinters I blow myself and the parts off. LOL

Then it's file time and use a #2 Swiss pattern flat and 1/2 round, then wrap various grits of paper around the file and keep at it, Once I think I've got the marks out and have finished with 320 cloth, I polish with a felt bob and emery cake, this will show up any marks that where covered up and go back to 320 and back to the polish. Once it polishes out pretty good I bead blast and hot blue if it's CS or leave it if SS. On this one the mag well is CS and blued and I left the SS frame polished, was going to tape it off and blast but though Hey I like it.


The outer rim can also be shaped/rounded as you like.

IMG_0261.JPG


LOG
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Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:57 am 
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Nice work Log.

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Greg Derr
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:09 am 
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:04 pm 
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Nice write up Log. Could you be so kind as to post pics of the process of elongating and welding up the hole if you have them?

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Post Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:00 pm 
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Post Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:05 pm 
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Gosh Log...Jerry manages to and he even cleans up the swarf before he snaps the pic...tisk tisk :P
After all you manage to set up some of the best gag photos in the history of 1911 smiffery.


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Joe

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:33 am 
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Log, Nice work, but I don't have the welding equipment or skill, so I hafta silver solder an old M/S hsg or hammer pin in the hole and then relocate it (tried a piece of drill rod, but it got REAL hard). :oops:

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:00 am 
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Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:33 am 
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