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1911Pro.com • View topic - How do you guys "de-lead" a barrel?

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Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:04 am
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Post Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:06 am 
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Shoot some FMJ's and then soak it in Shooters Choice. I would clean the barrel after each outing so you do not have the lead build up. I have a les BAer semi Wad cuter bulls eye pistol. I have only shot LSWC and I always clean it after I have shot it before the next outing.
I would lighten your loads so you are not burning so much lead. What loads are you shooting. My 1911 love 200 grain SWC hard cast with 4 grains of bullseye with a .470 taper crimp and I do not get any lead build up in the barrel.
Another good lead remover is Tipton lead cleaning towels, I cut small patches and run a double Oring jag through the barrel with the tipton lead removing patches.

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Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:37 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 4:38 pm 
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I couldn't find "Chore Boy" but I bought some generic all copper scrub pads for 1$ each. Wrapped around an old brush they scraped out a pile of lead in about 10 passes.

Worked awesome, Then some J & B bore paste on a patch and it looks like a mirror.




Jon

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Location: Tidewater VA

Post Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 2:14 am 
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Patch wet with Kroil through the bore, set aside. Clean rest of pistol.....after everything else is cleaned make a hand full of passes through the bore with a chore boy wrapped bronze brush. A patch wet with Kroil a dry patch and then an oily patch.

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Hal

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Lewis Lead Remover or copper Choreboy. The Outer's Foul Out is reserved for extreme cases. It works by reverse electroplating. An extremely leaded bore should be a one time occurrence unless you're a professional gun smith. In autoloaders, it is caused by firing lead bullets thru a rough or copper fouled bore, incorrectly sized and lubed cast bullets, shooting soft bullets at a velocity too high for their hardness or a combo of the previously mentioned. Usually, it's the incorrect size & lube.

It has been my experience that soaking long term in any solvent does little or nothing except use up said solvent. Shooting jacketed bullets thru a slightly leaded bore will knock out the "big chunks" but effectively solder the remainder to the bore. In a heavily leaded bore, this practice will elevate chamber pressures significantly and should be avoided.

Your best bet is to use the Choreboy or Lewis Lead remover to completely clean the bore, then determine the cause of the leading issue. This may involve slugging the bore to determine the correct groove diameter and then buying or casting bullets .001" above that diameter. It gets a bit more involved if you're dealing with a revolver. If you go the Choreboy route, be sure to test the Choreboy with a magnet to verify that it is actually copper and not copper finished steel.

Kroil is extremely effective in getting the last bit of lead or copper out of the bore. It isn't a solvent but rather a super penetrating oil and works by getting under either lead or copper fouling and loosening it so that it can be brushed from the bore by conventional cleaning methods.

Bruce

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Location: Tidewater VA

Post Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:54 am 
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A patch wetted with either Kroil or Ed's Red let it sit while I clean up the rest of the pistol then a few passes with a worn out bore brush with a patch sized piece of copper chore boy scrubber pad wrapped around the brush. Clean in just a few minutes. Then of course a couple dry patches and thin if a CS barrel a oil patch.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:29 pm 
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Wil Scheumann told me he never put anything down his barrels other than bullets and that one hour of some of the commercial cleaners, especially those with ammonia, will do over a years worth of wear shooting every day. Chemicals can cause microscratching that increase leading/copper fouling. The most abrasive compound he put down the barrel was a lightly oiled patch if he was going to store it.

Wil also said that some of his experienced shooters would not shoot a combination of lead and copper but if they did, it took at least 100 rounds to re-zero.

Granted, this applies to the hyper accuracy world of BE and silhouette shooting, but I have never seen a problem not cleaning barrels that have a very fine finish.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:33 am 
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I try to stop it before it occurs. In many cases leading is the result of using a bullet that is too small for the barrel. Switching to the right diameter bullet will frequently stop the problem. In most cases the bullet should be from .001 to .003 larger than the bore. To determine the diameter of a 2 or 4 groove barrel just drive a pure lead slug (I use egg fishing sinkers slightly greater than the bore diameter) through the barrel using a short section of a wooden dowel rod, then measure it with a micrometer. If you have a 5 groove barrel you can't read it directly using the smallest width so just estimate it using the smallest diameter that will allow the slug to just barely rotate between the jaws of the mike.

I currently have two 9mm 1911's and neither one exhibits any sign of leading. One, a S&W EMP has a bore diameter of .3545 so I size to .357. The Taurus mikes at .357 so I size to .359. Sizing smaller in either gun does produce leading. It can be removed with a copper Chore Boy but it's a lot easier to prevent it from happening.

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Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:35 am
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Post Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:35 am 
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lol...

You guys must have never shot lead reloads using bullseye powder.

If you clean then who cares how dirty it is?

MIke.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:57 pm 
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:25 pm 
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And another zombie thread roars back to life!

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